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A Starless Night

I work through the dream and give up interpreting it
and try to find some cosmic relief. I get up to make a pot of coffee as the crescent moon is descending to the invisible horizon west. Here one knows they are in Mexico waters along the Northen Baja coast line.
No traffic, a barren landscape to the east and two
thousand miles of ocean between us and Hawaii to west. I listen carefully to the rythem of the night.
If anything can go wrong, it will and when you least expect it, but one generally survives.
When my third watch of this first starless night offshore
began I could feel the 15-18 knot winds pushing us along from our starboard aft quarter.
Moonless now and hazy visibility is limited to the lit
console.Unnerving to the un-initiated is the loss of stars and horizon. You ride a roller coaster through a tunnel dark as pitch. Following seas lift and race the boat downhill, then make you crawl up the backside of a fluid whale.I get comfortable and find rhythm in the chaos.

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Going Ashore in Turtle Bay

The bay becomes alive with activity. Pongas are motoring in from a night of line fishing, passing the rocky coast at the west edge of the village. The fisherman's bright yellow slickers standing out vividly against the barren and sandy colored beach and wind worn, barren bluffs guarding the white Church perched above There are four sailboats anchored in the large bay with us and two large Shrimp boats. The Shrimp boats are rusty and antique looking. Sitting solid in the
water, displacing a few tons they remind me of the Greek fisherman. Loving their profession and living simple undisturbed lives feeding their fellow villagers. Hold's full of 'Camerones' for the tourist trade in Mazatlan.I try to remember where I
packed the Girlie magazines brought along for bartering. One magazine is usually good for a kilo of shrimp. I could eat a kilo in one sitting. I make a note to myself to ask a fisherman for a lift over too visit one of the two Shrimpers before dinner tonight

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Mexican Waters. Ensanada to Mazatlan

We motor along with two engines purring, close and A-beam desolate desert beaches and wind worn cliffs to port. The northern rocky coast of Mexico where it meets the Pacific Ocean We started out from Ensanada, Mx. with early morning fog and haze on a 32 ft. power boat.
We groped our way around 'Isles Todas Santos' that morning and listened to the rhythm of the engines as we sipped our coffee and peered into the haze. A pair of dolphins piloting us safely out of Bahia Todos Santos. The dolphins handed us over to a Gray whale and her Calf as we turned the corner and aimed for Isla Cedros.
The plumes exhaled from the whales were blending with the fog, like warm breath on a cold foggy day.
The remainder of the day we closely watch our progress with hourly fixes to verify our speed and distance. Running out of fuel along this desolate stretch of desert beaches and menacing rock monsters is not an option.                          

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